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Removing the rear wheels on a
1950 John Deere Model B
at Rusty Bucks Ranch LLC
This is the Step by Step process of removing the rear wheels from a 1950 John Deere Model B.
Many other two-cylinder Deere's will follow this same basic procedure. This is a tips guide to the
process of rear wheel removal and is not meant to be a replacement for the proper service
manual instructions. Please refer to your service manual for additional details and work safely!

This is the proper procedure for installing a new muffler if your hood hasn't been cut.
Have a cut hood? See how to fix that...

OK, depending on what daily duties your tractor was used for... It's possible that the rear wheels
haven't been slid on the axles for 50 plus years. They are stubborn even in an ideal situation.
Here's how to make it just a bit easier...
START NOW by spraying your axles, bolts, hub lock , and everything that will need to move with
some type of penetrating fluid. We prefer to use Kroil but any product will use. Be generous with
it and spray it every time you walk by the tractor for at least 3 or 4 days before you are ready to
begin the wheel removal. You will thank yourself for doing this later!
That bolt will now be located over the square head bolt to drive the lock hub off as you turn the
retaining bolts in. Alternate back and forth, pulling the lock hub off without binding
Once those bolts are removed they need to be inserted into the opposing holes on the hub.
Those holes are threaded to accept the bolt BUT spray with penetrating oil and take the time to
spray and wire brush the rust off your bolts. Ideally, you want to be able to thread these bolts into
the pulling holes by hand so you are getting maximum pulling force on the hub and noit wasting
your energy just turning the bolt through the threads.
Now the easy part is done! The lock hub is removed and you can begin on pulling the actual
wheel off the axle. Again, SPRAY with penetrating fluid and clean as much dirt and grease from
the axles as you can now. Spray it several times from front and rear and give it some soak in time.
We keep our
price structure
simple, labor plus
parts & material.  
In most cases we
will not bid a job,
however, we will
offer the best
estimate we can
but it will only be
an estimate.

When you give a
firm bid for doing
any type of repair
or service on this
type of equipment,
you must have a
built in cushion to
cover any
problems that might
arise.  If no
problems arise, the
bidder comes out
ahead and the
customer loses,
however, if major
problems arise the
bidder loses. Our
policy is made to be
fair for both parties
After a project has
been started and if
any unexpected
major problems
should arise, the
customer is always
notified before work
continues. We do
our best to keep
our customers
informed.  When we
go to settle an
account, we do not
like unexpected
surprises just as
much as the

We can/will stop the
restoration process
at any time per the
customers request.
Should unexpected
hardships occur, you
are not locked in to
finish to completion
any project that is
underway. We
recognize that daily
life brings
obstacles along the
way. We can delay
or stop our services
at your request
should you find
yourself in a difficult
About our
Restoration Pricing
and Quotes policy
Here's the lock hub removed. You can now pull the retaining bolts back out and get it ready for
clean up and or soda blasting.
The yellow paint goes on to complete.
Have a cut hood?
See how to fix that...
Replacing a muffler?
See how to fix that...
Removing the rear wheels?
See how to fix that...
Step one is to get those three bolts broke loose and taken out. It's going to take some brute force
to get them broken loose so get a breaker bar and a length of pipe if you need it for additional
leverage. We keep a 6 foot chain link fence corner post in the shop for the extra pulling power.
Here we have our in-shop made wheel puller set up ready to begin pulling the wheel.
Another shot of the wheel puller set up ready to begin pulling the wheel.
Once the threaded rod is through the hub, back it up with some nuts on the inside also.
This will put less strain on the actual threads in the hub and reduce chance of tearing up your threads.
I use a large socket that the hub will slide over to get maximum pull on the wheel.
If you run out of room before the wheel comes off teh axle, just back up your puller and install a
longer  socket or a 2nd socket to give you some more room to continue pulling.
Be ready for a work-out.
The hub will be tight and require maximum effort all the way out to the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
When you finally get it out to the point where it is hanging on the axle loosely... GET A FRIEND.
You will NOT be able to wrestle this beast by yourself. It is HEAVY
Repairing a leaky radiator?
See how to fix that...
Before and After with the Soda Blaster
Wheels are then primed for paint.
Rear wheels - Ready for tires.
Front wheels - Ready for tires.
A complete set of new tires arrive.
Tires are mounted and waiting for re-installation back onto the tractor.
This concludes the rear wheel removal and restoration  project.
Re-assemble wheels onto tractor and
set rear wheels to desired width on the axles.
Good luck on your project!